Posts Tagged ‘cooking’

SousVide Supreme SVK00001 Water Oven

Tuesday, December 18th, 2012

Pros: Produces AMAZING food
Cons: A little awkward to empty and requires some arm strength; expensive
Rating: 5 out of 5

Also posted on Epinions.com.

 

My husband and I love to cook. So I got him a copy of the book set “Modernist Cuisine at Home” for the holidays, and he got me a few of the gadgets that go with it, like the Sous Vide SVK-00001 Supreme Water Oven. I know, it seems like overkill—it seems like an expensive one-use item that’ll just take up needed counterspace. And yet, it’s totally worth it if you love to cook.

First of all, if you don’t know whether it would be worth it for you, then I encourage you to try one of the water bath recipes that doesn’t require an appliance (there are a few that go for a short enough period of time at a low enough temperature that you can do them with stuff you probably already have at home)—such as How to Cook Salmon Sous Vide in Your Kitchen Sink. Try it. If you don’t think the resulting salmon is THAT MUCH better than other preparations, then the SousVide Supreme probably won’t be worth it for you. When we tried it, we made one salmon fillet with the water bath/finish on the stove method, and made one using another standard cooking method. The difference was far greater than I’d imagined. The salmon was the perfect just-done temperature throughout; there was no dryness whatsoever; the flavor was divine; the texture was buttery-flaky; and the step of finishing it off in a pan of butter and seasonings gave it just the right touch of flavor and surface texture.

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Gift ideas for cooks, 2012

Wednesday, December 5th, 2012

Since I review a lot of cookbooks, I thought you might appreciate this one. I got a bit into the whole Modernist Cooking idea this year, just because food science is pretty neat and lets you do cool things. I reviewed Modernist Cuisine earlier, and will be reviewing Modernist Cuisine at Home (the version for home cooks) once we get to play with it a bit (I got it for my husband for an early Christmas present). So far it looks excellent, including lists of useful equipment and ingredients for the modernist cook. Anyway, to that end, here’s the authors’ list of some of the equipment you might want: Top 5 Modernist Cuisine at Home Tools. Note that the most important ones are a pair of highly accurate kitchen scales, one accurate to the tenth of a gram, and one accurate to the hundredth of a gram. The article includes both high-end and less expensive versions of those and more:

  1. Bench scale, 1000 gram capacity, 0.1 gram sensitivity: DIGITAL BENCH SCALE 1000 GRAM CAPACITY X 0.1 GRAM SENSITIVITY (more expensive) vs. American Weigh AMW-1000 Compact Bench Scale, 1000 by 0.1 G (less expensive)
  2. Pocket scale, 100 gram capacity, .01 gram sensitivity: DIGITAL POCKET SCALE 100 GRAM CAPACITY X 0.01 GRAM SENSITIVITY (more expensive) vs. American Weigh Signature Series Black AWS-100 Digital Pocket Scale, 100 by 0.01 G (less expensive)
  3. Digital thermometer: Taylor Professional 9306 Dual Temp IR/Thermocouple Thermometer (expensive) vs. Splash-Proof Super-Fast Thermapen (Gray) Instant Read Thermometer, Perfect for Barbecue, Home and Professional Cooking (also expensive; this is the one we have and it is extremely useful); vs. a digital oven probe: ThermoWorks The Original Cooking Thermometer/Timer (less expensive)
  4. Sous Vide Setup: SousVide Supreme Sous Vide Water Oven (expensive) or SousVide Supreme Demi Sous Vide Water Oven (smaller and less expensive)
  5. Although the article doesn’t specifically address this, if you plan to cook sous vide, you’ll want a vacuum sealer. I gather that the FoodSaver V3240 Vertical Vacuum Sealer, White is a popular and well-thought-of model.
  6. Pressure cooker: Kuhn Rikon 3344 7.4-Quart Stainless-Steel Pressure Cooker (expensive) vs. Fagor Splendid 6-Quart Pressure Cooker (less expensive)

Their article includes a whipping siphon in the top five, but in the book’s listing it’s #7, after a kitchen blowtorch, so I’m inclined to recommend getting the other stuff first. Obviously this stuff adds up fast, particularly if you want to cook sous vide. There are a couple of options. For one, some sous vide can be accomplished without the fancy equipment. I’ve seen the Modernist Cuisine authors present online ideas using ziploc bags and such for lower-temperature applications. Or you can do what we’re planning on doing: spread out your purchases over a bunch of holidays (Christmas! Birthday! Anniversary! Now you don’t have to think of gifts for the next whole year or more!). Depending on what we end up getting, eventually I plan to review some of the equipment, as well as, of course, the “at home” book, once we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces.

“The First Real Kitchen Cookbook,” Megan & Jill Carle

Wednesday, July 11th, 2012

Pros: A nice simple cookbook for someone who doesn’t have much experience and doesn’t want to be overwhelmed
Cons:
Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Review book (published 2011) courtesy of Chronicle Books

 

Some time ago I reviewed Megan & Jill Carle’s College Cooking book—a handy guide to making simple meals with only a minimal kitchen and supplies. Their The First Real Kitchen Cookbook: 100 Recipes and Tips for New Cooks picks up at the next natural stage: what to do when you move out on your own post-college. You probably have slightly more kitchen to work with, room for a few more pots and pans, and hopefully a little income and the desire to eat better food. The Carle sisters suggest which pans you should pick up first, what some of the necessary utensils and gadgets are, and what you might pick up next if you have some extra money and space after getting the basics.

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“Milk & Cookies,” Tina Casaceli

Friday, March 23rd, 2012

Pros: Mmmmmmm…..
Cons: Just remember to put that butter out to soften, and it helps to have a good stand mixer
Rating: 5 out of 5

Review book (published 2011) provided courtesy of Chronicle Books
 

 

I’m eating a lot less sweets these days, but I’m still a sucker for certain things. A great crisp cookie is one of them. Tina Casaceli’s Milk & Cookies: 89 Heirloom Recipes from New York’s Milk & Cookies Bakery includes 89 recipes for cookies of all kinds, from the soft to the uber-crisp. Casaceli organizes her recipes by type (vanilla cookies, double chocolate cookies, oatmeal cookies, peanut butter cookies, sugar cookies, and “special cookies”, as well as family favorites and brownies & bars).

Most chapters start off with a “base” dough for the relevant type of cookie, such as the vanilla base dough on page 20. Then each recipe within that chapter tells you how to alter or add to the base dough to get the results you want. This is a method that’s more important to an operation that’s trying to produce a ton of cookies on demand and doesn’t want to have to create 90 different doughs, and it does mean a little flipping around as you’re making your recipes. The changes are simple ones, though, so as long as you don’t have a three-second memory limit like I do, you’re probably fine. The classic chocolate chip cookies are a great example of a use of the vanilla dough base. They’re packed full of both chocolate chunks and chocolate curls (or shavings), and have a sort of soft inside and crispy edge. The recipe makes plenty, which is good, because they’ll disappear fast! (Ours certainly did.) The vanilla dough can also be used to make such recipes as white chocolate-macadamia nut cookies, dark chocolate-toffee cookies, and walnut cookies.

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“Quick & Easy Mexican Cooking,” Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee

Wednesday, July 27th, 2011

Pros: Delicious! Great layout
Cons: Some ingredients may be a little tough to find
Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Review book (published 20011) provided by Chronicle Books.

 

Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee’s Quick & Easy Mexican Cooking: More Than 80 Everyday Recipes includes more than 80 recipes that won’t take all day to prepare. Ms. Lee’s parents bought a Mexican grocery store when she was young, and so began her education in Mexican foods. Neighborhood women would share recipes with her and her family, and once she graduated from college she lived in Mexico for a time.

Luckily for us it’s easier to find Mexican ingredients in a wide variety of stores now, but some ingredients still might not appear on your local supermarket shelves. However, I didn’t find that to be a huge problem when working with the book, just an occasional note. And of course, these days you can order many ingredients online.

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“Easy Green Organic,” Anna Getty

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

Pros: Delicious, easy food; lots of information on eating green, organic, sustainable, etc.
Cons: Binding issues
Rating: 4 out of 5

Review book (published 2010) provided courtesy of Chronicle Books.

 

Anna Getty’s Easy Green Organic is a great place to start if you want to “green” your kitchen but aren’t sure how to start. It will help you decode food labels, explain the differences between organic, sustainable, fair trade, and other terms, tell you which types of produce retain the most pesticides, and so on. There’s information on composting, making environmentally friendly changes to your cleaning and cooking habits, and more. Getty is realistic—she encourages you to pick one change you’re comfortable with and get used to it before you move on to the next.

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“Farmers’ Market Desserts,” Jennie Schacht

Wednesday, July 14th, 2010

Pros: Delightful, delicious, and oh-so-seasonal!
Cons: None so far!
Rating: 5 out of 5

Review book (published 2010) provided courtesy of Chronicle Books.

 

Farmers’ markets can be delightful places, filled with ripe, seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well as things like honey, maple syrup, fresh eggs, milk, and dairy. If you have one near you, you’ve probably meant to take advantage of it more than you actually have. If so, grab a copy of Jennie Schacht’s Farmers’ Market Desserts. It’s filled with inspiring photographs of fresh fruits and farmers’ market treats, as well as the desserts it offers up. It has a chart of the peak US growing season for a wide range of produce from almonds to figs, melons to zucchini. And the recipes come with plenty of suggestions for substituting alternate fruits should the one you want not be in perfect condition on a given week.

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“Whoopie Pies,” Billingsley & Treadwell

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

Pros: WONDERFUL results; fantastic mix-and-match ideas
Cons: One or two small mistakes—but the recipes are simple enough that if you know your way around a kitchen, you can figure them out
Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Review book (published 2010) provided courtesy of Chronicle Books.
Also posted on Epinions.com.

 

Whoopie pies (also called “gobs” in some places) are one of those things I was familiar with growing up, since I lived in the northeastern US. They look like ice cream sandwiches, only traditionally the cookies are actually chocolate cake, and the filling is marshmallow. It’s one of those decadent, bad-for-you childhood treats that can become so much more in the hands of a creative cook.

In Whoopie Pies: Dozens of Mix ‘em, Match ‘em, Eat ‘em Up Recipes, Sarah Billingsley and Amy Treadwell give us a gourmet take on whoopie pies—without sacrificing any of the decadence or childlike delight!

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“Stonewall Kitchen Winter Celebrations,” King, Stott & Gunst

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Pros: Delightful!
Cons: None
Rating: 5 out of 5

Review book (published 2009) courtesy of Chronicle Books.

 

This is the second Stonewall Kitchen cookbook I’ve tried, and I’m definitely hooked. They’re small cookbooks, that focus on providing a smaller number of very good, adaptable recipes to work with rather than a huge, definitive listing. The photos are gorgeous, the paper is high-quality, the layout is clean & easy to read, and the recipes…. well, they’re fantastic!

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“All Cakes Considered,” Melissa Gray

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Pros: Hilarious, incredibly useful, and soooooooooo delicious
Cons: NONE
Rating: 6 out of 5

Review book (published 2009) courtesy of Chronicle Books.
Also posted on Epinions.com.

 

Actual quotes uttered during the testing of this cookbook by me, my husband, and friends:

“Is it legal for cakes to taste this good?”

“She’s a natural storyteller.”

“We don’t have to stop making cakes from this book just because you’re ready to review it, do we?”

(With pen in hand) “What’s the name of that cookbook?”

 

I’ve been reviewing books since roughly 1998. In that time, I’ve reviewed almost 200 cookbooks. I can say without a doubt—and I noticed this well before I started getting any review copies from them—that overall, Chronicle puts out the best cookbooks. Don’t get me wrong; cookbooks from other publishers can, individually, be equally as good. But for the most consistent high quality and production value, I look to Chronicle. I’ve only once, I think, been “meh” about one of their cookbooks, and I’ve never given really low marks to any of them. That’s a surprising track record.

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