Posts Tagged ‘modernist cuisine’

SousVide Supreme SVK00001 Water Oven

Tuesday, December 18th, 2012

Pros: Produces AMAZING food
Cons: A little awkward to empty and requires some arm strength; expensive
Rating: 5 out of 5

Also posted on Epinions.com.

 

My husband and I love to cook. So I got him a copy of the book set “Modernist Cuisine at Home” for the holidays, and he got me a few of the gadgets that go with it, like the Sous Vide SVK-00001 Supreme Water Oven. I know, it seems like overkill—it seems like an expensive one-use item that’ll just take up needed counterspace. And yet, it’s totally worth it if you love to cook.

First of all, if you don’t know whether it would be worth it for you, then I encourage you to try one of the water bath recipes that doesn’t require an appliance (there are a few that go for a short enough period of time at a low enough temperature that you can do them with stuff you probably already have at home)—such as How to Cook Salmon Sous Vide in Your Kitchen Sink. Try it. If you don’t think the resulting salmon is THAT MUCH better than other preparations, then the SousVide Supreme probably won’t be worth it for you. When we tried it, we made one salmon fillet with the water bath/finish on the stove method, and made one using another standard cooking method. The difference was far greater than I’d imagined. The salmon was the perfect just-done temperature throughout; there was no dryness whatsoever; the flavor was divine; the texture was buttery-flaky; and the step of finishing it off in a pan of butter and seasonings gave it just the right touch of flavor and surface texture.

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Gift ideas for cooks, 2012

Wednesday, December 5th, 2012

Since I review a lot of cookbooks, I thought you might appreciate this one. I got a bit into the whole Modernist Cooking idea this year, just because food science is pretty neat and lets you do cool things. I reviewed Modernist Cuisine earlier, and will be reviewing Modernist Cuisine at Home (the version for home cooks) once we get to play with it a bit (I got it for my husband for an early Christmas present). So far it looks excellent, including lists of useful equipment and ingredients for the modernist cook. Anyway, to that end, here’s the authors’ list of some of the equipment you might want: Top 5 Modernist Cuisine at Home Tools. Note that the most important ones are a pair of highly accurate kitchen scales, one accurate to the tenth of a gram, and one accurate to the hundredth of a gram. The article includes both high-end and less expensive versions of those and more:

  1. Bench scale, 1000 gram capacity, 0.1 gram sensitivity: DIGITAL BENCH SCALE 1000 GRAM CAPACITY X 0.1 GRAM SENSITIVITY (more expensive) vs. American Weigh AMW-1000 Compact Bench Scale, 1000 by 0.1 G (less expensive)
  2. Pocket scale, 100 gram capacity, .01 gram sensitivity: DIGITAL POCKET SCALE 100 GRAM CAPACITY X 0.01 GRAM SENSITIVITY (more expensive) vs. American Weigh Signature Series Black AWS-100 Digital Pocket Scale, 100 by 0.01 G (less expensive)
  3. Digital thermometer: Taylor Professional 9306 Dual Temp IR/Thermocouple Thermometer (expensive) vs. Splash-Proof Super-Fast Thermapen (Gray) Instant Read Thermometer, Perfect for Barbecue, Home and Professional Cooking (also expensive; this is the one we have and it is extremely useful); vs. a digital oven probe: ThermoWorks The Original Cooking Thermometer/Timer (less expensive)
  4. Sous Vide Setup: SousVide Supreme Sous Vide Water Oven (expensive) or SousVide Supreme Demi Sous Vide Water Oven (smaller and less expensive)
  5. Although the article doesn’t specifically address this, if you plan to cook sous vide, you’ll want a vacuum sealer. I gather that the FoodSaver V3240 Vertical Vacuum Sealer, White is a popular and well-thought-of model.
  6. Pressure cooker: Kuhn Rikon 3344 7.4-Quart Stainless-Steel Pressure Cooker (expensive) vs. Fagor Splendid 6-Quart Pressure Cooker (less expensive)

Their article includes a whipping siphon in the top five, but in the book’s listing it’s #7, after a kitchen blowtorch, so I’m inclined to recommend getting the other stuff first. Obviously this stuff adds up fast, particularly if you want to cook sous vide. There are a couple of options. For one, some sous vide can be accomplished without the fancy equipment. I’ve seen the Modernist Cuisine authors present online ideas using ziploc bags and such for lower-temperature applications. Or you can do what we’re planning on doing: spread out your purchases over a bunch of holidays (Christmas! Birthday! Anniversary! Now you don’t have to think of gifts for the next whole year or more!). Depending on what we end up getting, eventually I plan to review some of the equipment, as well as, of course, the “at home” book, once we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces.

“Modernist Cuisine,” Myhrvold, Young, and Bilet

Friday, August 5th, 2011

Pros: Stunning collection of information, techniques, diagrams, photos, tables, recipes, and more!
Cons: Very expensive; many of the recipes and techniques also require expensive, difficult-to-obtain, or space-hogging items or ingredients; complex techniques and recipes are not for the casual cook!
Rating: 5 out of 5

NOTE: The folks involved with Modernist Cuisine were kind enough to give me temporary online access to the set for review purposes. If I (hopefully!) end up eventually picking up a physical copy, I’ll try to come back and comment on the physical quality and characteristics of the books as well. For now, I’ll just point out that according to Amazon, this set spans nearly 2500 pages and has a shipping weight of 50 pounds! Also, since the set is so large and expensive, you’ll have to put up with a longer-than-usual review!

 

Most magazines reviewing Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (by Nathan Myhrvold, Chris Young, and Maxime Bilet) will undoubtedly review it as a curiosity, as a coffee table set, or as a guide for culinary professionals and would-be professionals. I wanted to tackle it from a different direction: at what level might it be worth buying for a non-professional cooking enthusiast/hobbyist? Or would it at all?

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